When you can find barrel-proof bourbon under $40, it’s hard not to get curious. So I blinded Wolcott Rickhouse Reserve (a 120-proof Total Wine “Spirits Direct” bottle) against three bourbons I already enjoy and that fall within a tight proof range — between 116 and 125.
The contenders: 1792 Full Proof (a 125-proof store pick), Wild Turkey Rare Breed (a 116.8-proof stalwart), and Smooth Ambler Old Scout (another store pick, this one at 119.6 proof).
Wolcott Rickhouse Reserve (120 Proof) – Barton / Sazerac
Part of Total Wine’s “Spirits Direct” lineup, Wolcott is produced at the Barton 1792 Distillery in Bardstown, Kentucky, under the Sazerac umbrella. The mash bill isn’t disclosed but is generally thought to be ~75% corn, 15% rye, 10% malted barley. Bottled at 120 proof, it leans into classic Barton richness — oak, caramel, vanilla, and rye spice — at a very wallet-friendly price.
1792 Full Proof (125 Proof Store Pick) – Barton / Sazerac
From the same distillery, 1792 Full Proof is bottled at its 125-proof barrel-entry strength. The mash bill mirrors Wolcott’s (75/15/10) and produces dense caramel, baking spice, and oak depth that helped earn it a “World Whiskey of the Year” nod a few years back. A natural yardstick for comparing Barton’s range of cask-strength flavor.
Rare Breed (~116.8 Proof) – Wild Turkey Distillery
Wild Turkey’s flagship barrel-proof bourbon blends 6-, 8-, and 12-year stocks using the house recipe of 75% corn, 13% rye, 12% malted barley. Known for toasted spice, orange zest, and that unmistakable “Turkey funk,” it’s long been considered one of the best values in the barrel-proof category.
Old Scout (Barrel Proof Store Pick) – Smooth Ambler / MGP
Sourced from MGP in Indiana and bottled by Smooth Ambler in West Virginia, Old Scout uses MGP’s high-rye mash bill of 60% corn, 36% rye, 4% malted barley. Most store picks fall near 120 proof, offering vivid spice, vanilla, and brown-sugar sweetness that make it a reliable—and often underrated—contender.
The Warm-Up Pour
Nashtucky Kentucky Straight Bourbon 7-Year Single Barrel
The proof almost qualified for the blind, but the price didn’t. Copper-rich color with a buttery brown-sugar nose accented by nutmeg and caramel. The palate turns slightly floral—clover, raisins, figs—before cinnamon spice takes over. Thick mouthfeel, sweet-spice finish. At 123.3 proof and $70, it’s not top-shelf but still a gentleman’s-cube treat. Score: 84.4
The Blind
Glencairn A
Color: Rich amber
Nose: Leather and cardamom with caramel creeping in later
Palate: Cherries and bananas in brown sugar with nutmeg
Mouthfeel: Oily and creamy — coats the tongue nicely
Finish: Fruit and sugar linger for a long while
Score: 80.7
Glencairn B
Color: Light copper
Nose: Classic bourbon aromas — toffee, caramel, vanilla, oak, a hint of fruit
Palate: Oak, sugar, apples, vanilla — pleasant but less depth than A
Mouthfeel: Silky to creamy
Finish: Brown sugar and oak with a touch of spice
Score: 77.9
Glencairn C
Color: Light copper
Nose: Oak and leather with savory spice and caramel
Palate: Baking spice leads, then oak, brown sugar, and caramel
Mouthfeel: Nearly creamy
Finish: Sweet brown sugar and vanilla linger
Score: 76.7
Glencairn D
Color: Very light copper
Nose: Light oak, cinnamon, caramel apples, brown sugar
Palate: Oak, brown sugar, cinnamon, and caramel apples
Mouthfeel: Viscous and creamy — a bit luscious
Finish: Long and enjoyable; sweetness and spice hang on
Score: 80.6
Thoughts About the Blind
Revisiting each pour, C developed a peanutty edge while B kept a steady balance. D offered bold flavor and finish, but A simply delivered more harmony — a glass I’d reach for any day of the week (and twice on Sunday).
The Reveal
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A: Smooth Ambler Old Scout
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B: 1792 Full Proof (Store Pick)
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C: Wild Turkey Rare Breed
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D: Wolcott Rickhouse Reserve
The Finish
1️⃣ Smooth Ambler Old Scout
2️⃣ Wolcott Rickhouse Reserve
3️⃣ 1792 Full Proof (Store Pick)
4️⃣ Wild Turkey Rare Breed
Final Thoughts
Frankly, I’m blown away. I never would’ve guessed that a 120-proof Total Wine “Spirits Direct” bourbon under $40 would edge out its 125-proof Barton cousin — or that Rare Breed would finish last. But the real revelation was the Smooth Ambler Old Scout, a $30 store pick from Shores Liquor that simply out-classed everything else. I went back this morning, and let’s just say the shelf’s looking mighty bare now.
(Side note: the Nashtucky Single Barrel was still the class of the evening — that one’s reserved for special occasions.)
Copyright © 2025 Doug DeBolt.